Taming the Two Towers: Conquering a 520 km Cycling Challenge in 26 Hours

I signed up for the Two Towers in One Day Challenge in Taiwan again in 2022 and successfully completed the 520 km challenge in 26 hours.  Here is how I did it.

Setting a Very Firm Target

I’ve set a very firm target for myself this year. I aim to complete the ride, regardless of how long it takes. If I can finish within 28 hours, I’ll be awarded a trophy, but that’s not my main focus. My primary goal is to finish it this year, even if it takes 35 hours or more. At the very least, I’ll have a record on Strava. I anticipate getting sleepy towards the end of the challenge in Pingtung but quitting is not an option. In the worst-case scenario, I might have to take a short nap in those convenience stores.

Supporting Services

To enhance my focus on cycling during the challenge, I opted for a support service package offered by XiaoChu, a friend who operates a company providing cycling tour services. This comprehensive package covers logistical aspects such as reaching the starting point before the event, supply stops during the ride, and the return trip to Taipei. Additionally, in the unlikely event that I cannot complete the ride, there’s the option to safely transition to the hotel at the destination by hopping on one of the support cars. I’ll delve into more details on how these support services played a crucial role in helping me complete the ride later.

A Proper Bike Fitting

Last year, I only made it to Tainan, and some issues emerged after long-distance cycling. My shoulders and elbows hurt because I relied heavily on them to support my body weight when fatigue set in, causing my posture on the bike to deform. Additionally, I experienced persistent lower back pain after cycling for more than 70 km. My forefeet were squeezed to the point where I couldn’t feel my fourth toes. Long-distance cycling serves as a stres test on my bike fitting. 

As for the lower back pain, I initially attributed it to my own mistake of over-inflating the tires after a pinch flat from a pothole. However, after delving into more research, I identified the main causes and their solutions. According to a video by the Road Cycling Academy, it was a pair of muscles in my lower back, the Quadratus lumborum, that became victims of overloading. According to Neill Standury, the bike fitting expert in the video, I learned that these muscles play a crucial role in stabilising the pelvis during pedalling. Excessive rocking of the pelvis, caused by factors such as the saddle set too high, cleats positioned too forward, crank arms too long, or the Q-factor of the pedals being too narrow, can lead to overloading of the Quadratus lumborum. This can be confirmed by having eh pain subsided quickly after getting off from the bike and allowing these muscles to rest.

In my case, the culprit was the saddle height. Since lowering it, the lower back pain issue has significantly improved. It tends to occur only when I exert more effort for increased speed over an extended period. However, the discomfort fades away if I ease up on the pedalling without the need to a complete stop. By managing my pace, I can delay the onset of the pain.

Lowering the saddle also addressed another issue — the problem with my forefeet being squeezed disappeared completely. With the saddle too high, my toes had to point towards the ground beyond the 3 to 4 o’clock position with each pedal stroke. Unintentionally, I was pushing my feet into the toe box of my shoes, squeezing my toes together and restricting blood flow into my fourth toes. The lower saddle rectified this, ensuring my feet are more level and can rest on the pedals at a proper angle without any discomfort or squeezing of my toes. 
But what about the power output? Does lowering the saddle mean sacrificing power? Not necessarily. Interestingly, a higher saddle doesn’t guarantee a better position for maximising power output. Our muscles contract to pull our bones and exert force on the pedal. As illustrated on this page – Force of Muscle Contraction, the maximum tension of our muscles is found at the middle of the contraction. As a muscle contracts to its end of range, the tension decreases rapidly. Therefore, to achieve the maximum force, we want our muscles to operate at the middle range of contraction. A higher saddle does not necessarily translate to increased muscle power output.

For my elbows and shoulders, their role is solely for steering, not supporting my body weight. It’s crucial not to cock my elbows, as doing so would transfer all impacts directly to the joints, especially on uneven roads. Keeping the arms slightly bent allows the tendons and muscles to absorb most of the impacts. Lowering the saddle has the added benefit of shifting my center of weight away from my arms. This adjustment makes it easier to maintain my position with comfortable bent arms.  

The Rikulau Master V9

This year, I used the Rikulau Master V9, The V9 (Vulcan) features Rikulau’s proprietary seamless tubing made with Custom C465 stainless steel by Carpenter Technology, USA. Custom C465 stainless steel is specifically developed for aerospace and marine applications. The general corrosion resistance of the alloy, tested with exposure to 5% neutral salt spray at 35°C, resulted in no corrosion after more than 2,000 hours of exposure. 

The tube-making and heat treatment processes are conducted in Taiwan. Achieving a balance in tensile strength (approximately 1800MPa) and good ductility is accomplished by selecting the appropriate age-hardening heat treatment temperature according to Rikulau’s introduction to this bike. 

This is the first road bike I intend to own and ride for decades. I have travelled with it to many places in Taiwan and have already developed some emotional attachment ot it. 

I believe a well-maintained drop-bar road bike with proper sizing should be sufficient. While a flat-bar road bike might be acceptable, it offers only two holding positions at best, limiting our ability to rotate our position. This inflexibility may lead to overworked muscles, especially considering we’ll be spending more than 24 hours on the bike.

Logistic Preparation 

The challenge began at midnight at Fugui Cape and was expected to last around 24 hours, encompassing two night periods. To optimise sleep opportunities, Xiaochu booked a hotel in Tamsui for us to rest after dinner. We were then transported to the starting point around 11:00 pm. Xiaochu strategically set up supply stops every 70km, allowing us to refill our bottles and snack pouches. Maintaining a consistent intake of food is crucial, as we’re expected to burn around 8,000 Kcal during this endurance period. After cycling for  40 km, I already felt so hungry and I found myself eating a piece of bread, on the saddle, that I had saved from the afternoon.

In the darkness, spotting our own supply cars became a challenging task. Xiaochu addressed this by broadcasting the supply cars’ live locations on Velodash, proving to be immensely helpful, especially when they couldn’t park at the exact planned locations due to occupancy by other supply cars. When I was approaching the supply stop, I could just launch the app to spot them among all the support cars or the other teams. 

Xiaochu provided glowing bands for us to wear on our ankles or arms. This simple measure ensured that the supporting staff could easily identify us from a distance and guide us to the cars at each stop.

The Starting 

We encountered some drizzles at Fuguijiao Lighthouse. Fortunately, my jacket was sufficient to keep my body core dry. The roads were wet, with a long stretch of participants occupying the entire lane. I proceeded cautiously, aware that even a small accident could potentially trigger a mass crash, leading to the premature retirement of many participants from the race.

A Spontaneous Team Formed

It became completely dry when we reached Bali District at 40 km. I made a brief stop to remove my shoe covers, which I had worn to prevent rain from wetting my feet. Surprisingly, they were wet inside, but not from rain. Instead, it was the sweat from my feet condensing on the shoe covers, which were made of the same material as swimming caps. Fortunately, I was able to remove them before my feet got drenched by my own sweat. Soon, the moisture was whisked away by the wind, and I continued cycling comfortably with dry feet.

I must say, we were blessed with the best weather conditions this year. A very strong tailwind propelled us, and everyone was cruising at over 40 km/hour, making the ride exceptionally enjoyable. Soon, I recognized my friends Jeff and Hsunyi, along with their friend Abby, all identified by Xiaochu’s glowing bands as participants in the support services. Realising our paces were quite similar, we decided to stick together and took turns leading the group.

BCAA to Rescue 

At the 2nd supply stop, my legs started to show signs of cramping. xiaochu offered some BCAA pills, a type of amino acid that our body uses to build proteins. It worked like magic; I never experienced muscle cramps again. Additionally, there was an unexpected benefit: my lower back pain. Despite adjusting the saddle height, I had only managed to delay its onset. I expected it to resurface at some point, but to my surprise, it never occurred throughout the entire ride. I attribute this relief to the BCAA. If you are facing a similar problem, it’s worth considering trying BCAA supplements — they’re just supplements,  after all.

Every Minute Counts

As the morning broke, we decided to take an extra breakfast top stop due to our good progress. Approaching the Wuqi district of Taichung, known for its numerous traffic lights, we opted for a longer route to the coast to bypass the lights and potentially increase our speed. Upon meeting Xiaochu at the Wuqi stop for the planned breakfast, he informed us that it was a wrong call, as other participants who maintained a similar pace had already passed by sticking to the official route. Anyway, the breakfast the team prepared for us was delicious. Nothing extravagant — just some soybean milk with a sandwich from a local food store. The variety of tastes provided a welcome break from energy gels and lifted our spirits.

He also delivered another piece of news: our chance of finishing this challenge within 24 hours was slipping away. While it wasn’t our initial target, Xiaochu’s support team was coordinating with participants aiming to reach Eluanbi within 24 hours. This meant our windows for supply stops would become smaller. If we were still on the road after 24 hours, we would have to rely on convenience stores for supplies. I found this to e a very reasonable arrangement, considering the support team’s need to take us back to Taipei the next morning after working for such a long hour. They deserved some good rest.

Cadence at Natural Frequency

It is said that we exhaust the carbohydrate stored in our body after two hours of exercise, and our gut might not be able to digest food quickly enough to replenish the sugar in our body. To tap into my ample body fat reserves, I cycled at lower gears with a higher cadence, maintaining over 100 rpm.

Something fascinating occurred. It seemed as though my legs were moving on their own, requiring minimal effort to pedal. While lower gears naturally result in lower resistance from the pedals, I could also feel that my legs were lighter at this cadence. In hindsight, I believe I was cycling at the natural frequency of my legs. 

Ever wonder why a mechanical metronome can swing for such a long time after just a couple of windings? It’s because it swings at its natural frequency, requiring very little energy to keep it going. The same principle applies to our bodies. Another example is when we walk; our legs move like a pair of pendulums at their natural frequency. However, when we run, our legs have to move at higher frequencies, working against the natural frequency and causing more fatigue after covering the same distance. Pedalling is also a periodical motion, and I discovered the existence of a natural frequency during this long ride. When can leverage this phenomenon to achieve maximum energy efficiency especially when our muscles are tired.

Companion and Support Make a Difference

At Tainan, Abby and I were still maintaining the same pace, but we had dropped Jeff and Hsunyi. We decided to treat ourselves to some snacks at the first 7-Eleven we spotted in the city. The shopkeeper generously provided each cyclist with an extra hard-boiled egg for free to accompany the instant noodles. 

Last year, I felt lonely and struggled with lower back pain, wasting a lot of willpower on meaningless self-talk. Questions like,

‘Is it a good time for a break?’, 

‘Should I stop at this 7-Eleven for some snacks?’,

‘What should I buy?’,

“Maybe not this one because there are too many people.”, 

“But what if the next one is too far away?”, 

“Maybe it’s going to be the same so why not just take a break while I have one around?”, “Should I worry about the last leg from Kaohsiung to Eluanbi?”, 

“What if I collapse?”. 

This year, it was wonderful to have someone to chat with, especially when sharing the same goal. With Xiaochu’s well-planned supply stops, I could focus my willpower solely on cycling. The next stop is 70 km ahead, so I just didi ti. The food he provided wasn’t extravagant, but it felt good to have someone prepare for me, and I was pleasantly surprised with some local delicacies. Xiaochu also briefed us on our progress, providing crucial information even though it was a simple calculation. In 2020, during the Taipei to Kaohsiung Challenge, I got my progress and the maths wrong when I was alone. I almost failed to make it within the time limit. 

The Real Start in Kaohsiung

By Around 19:00, we reached Pingshan Elementary School in Kaohsiung, the designated destination for the Taipei to Kaohsiung Challenge. Xiaochu’s team had prepared a simple yet delicious dinner awaiting us. Despite my continuous eating on the saddle, I devoured the meal and even went for two refills.

Having already covered 400 km with 130 km left to go, it felt like a real start to me. This marked the first time I ventured further south in such a long ride. 

Kaohsiung, with its numerous multi-lane roads, resembled a maze to me, especially in the darkness. The organisers had some helpers stationed at significant junctions to guide us, but having your route loaded onto your navigation device is advisable.

We navigated through Kaohsiung smoothly, reuniting with Xiaochu at another supply stop. The excitement was palpable as everyone realised how far we had come. Another group of participants joined our ride for a while, as they weren’t entirely sure about the route. We welcomed the additional companionship. 

The Confrontation by the Downhill Winds

As we approached Checheng, I felt my strength fading. The wind shifted as we headed southeast on the Pingtung Peninsula, making it harder to keep up with Abby, and soon I lost sight of her. Abby and I met Xiaochu again at a 7-Eleven, where they were ready to head directly to Eluanbi. It was our last chance to get in the car, but we both decided to press on with the ride. I advised Abby to ride at her own pace for a better time. Soon, I was dropped again.

The low hills of the Pingtung Peninsula directed the northeast wind upward and then funnelled it down at the west side from all directions – The notorious Downhill Wind – confronting us at the last 50 km. After enjoying a tailwind for so long, it was time to pay the price.

Slowly, I made it to Hengchun and Kenting Street. People in the Kenting night market cheered for us. A guy with a beer in his hand even gave me a push on the back. Oh, that was nice, even if just for a second. 

Then came the last 8 km, and I found myself all alone. The Downhill Wind intensified. To add to the eerie effect, before the wind pushed you sideways, it gave you a warning with the rattling of the trees. Once, I almost got pushed to the opposite lane. In preparation for this part, I have undertaken a challenge from Taichung to Eluanbi a couple of months ago. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have had the nerve to continue. I knew the finishing line was there; all I needed to do was keep pedalling. However, the last 5 km seemed to stretch longer. I found myself speaking to myself, ‘Pedal! Pedal! Pedal!’

The Finishing Line

After too many moments of self-talk, I finally caught sight of the finishing line, which I initially doubted was a hallucination. I rolled my bike into the finishing gate and heard the beep of the computer recording my finishing time. 

Xiaochu was there to greet me and take pictures. I followed the procedures to receive my certificate and trophy. It was 2:00 a.m., and I managed to finish this ride in 26 hours. The next morning, when I woke up, I learned that Jeff and Hsuny had also made it within 28 hours.

Road Conditions for Cyclists in Taiwan – How to check the lastest information

The roads in Taiwan are exceptionally well-maintained. In cases where damages are caused by earthquakes and typhoons, repairs are swiftly carried out, ensuring that roads, including those for cycling around the islands, are quickly restored. However, in some remote areas, such as the mountains, road repairs can be more challenging and may take longer.

During the repair period, some roads may be temporarily closed, while others may allow passage only during specific windows of time, potentially interrupting our rides. To ensure smooth cycling through these areas, it is crucial to check the website of the Directorate General of Highways, which provides a ‘Provincial Highway Real-time Information Service.’

  • Click on the “Switch Language” at the top right corner to change the interface to English
  • Click on “Prov. Highway CCTV” to deselect it. Then, click on “Construction Info.” and “Disaster Info.” to select them.
  • On the map, zoom in to the area you plan to visit
  • Click on the icons on the map to view the text
  • Select the text, copy it, and then Paste to computer translation services like Google Translate or ChatGPT

At times, traffic control information can be found in ‘Construction Info.’ while at other times in ‘Disaster Info.’ Therefore, it’s important to read information from both categories. Please do not blame the translation services if you find it hard to understand. The original text may pose challenges even for a Chinese-speaking person, and occasionally, I find it necessary to call the nearby police station to confirm my understanding.

It’s crucial to note that this website only displays road conditions for Provincial Highways. In instances where we prefer cycling on County Highways, Township Roads, and Industrial Roads, for quieter traffic and better views, I have yet to find a centralised website for that. In such cases, searching for news about a particular road or calling nearby police stations to check becomes essential. Additionally, when booking hotels or restaurants, staff members may provide valuable information about any road closures. In case of poor road conditions, it’s safer to switch to larger roads.

Slit the Sweet Potato – Cycle Through Taiwan’s Mountainous Splendor (2)

I joined Eddie Chen’s southern half of the ‘Wuling Pass from the North towards Eluanbi – a 500-mile cross-country ride in Taiwan’ 北進武嶺南出鵝鑾鼻,縱斷台灣五百哩 in early November 2023 and completed my ‘Slit the Sweet Potato’ project on my bike, cycling through Taiwan’s mountain ranges. For the northern half of my journey, please refer to this post

During the northern half, we had already climbed Wuling, the highest paved road in Taiwan. In the second half, we cycled through numerous tea farms, and indigenous people’s settlements, all with rich cultural heritage.

Day 1 Puli to Shuili to Heshe (Tongfu)

In the northern half, we concluded the first part in Puli at the Stele of Taiwan’s Geography Center. This time, our support van took us there to start the ride.

We followed County Highway 131 southwards, a beautiful and quiet route adorned with numerous Betel Nut trees. Our first stop was the Antique Assam Tea Farm, a tea plantation featuring a splendid building showcasing their machinery and the tea-making process.

Subsequently, we took a brief detour from County Highway 131 and descended to Checheng Station, the terminus of the Jiji Railway Branch line running from Ershui Station. The section from Jiji Station to Checheng is currently undergoing repairs, and no trains are scheduled to run until the end of 2025.

The Township Road 投59 was the highlight of the day. To allow more time on this route, we bypassed 15km of Provincial Highway 21 by utilizing our support car after having lunch at Shuilie. Township Road 投59 is a narrow road connecting several settlements of the Bunun and Tsou Indigenous people, including Luona (for an interesting post about this village, click here), Mamahavana, and Toungfu in Heshe, Nantou County. While cycling on this route, we could witness various crops cultivated by local farmers, enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the valley, and experience close-up views of the villages.

Route:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Day 2 Tongfu to Tataka to Shizhao (石卓), Zhuqi Township

We bid farewell to Tongfu and commenced our 41 km ascent on the majestic Provincial Highway 21, surrounded by mountains. To reach the peak of Tataka, a popular gathering point for hikers, including those bound for Yushan or Mount Jade, the island’s highwest summit, we needed to ascend more than 2000 meters. It’s crucial to note that the section from Caopingtou to Tataka is only open during daytime and closes from 17:00 to 7:00 the next morning due to the risk of falling rocks.

With the assistance of numerous short tunnels cutting through the hills and easing the slopes, the gradient wasn’t too steep. As we ascended, fog began to gather, with vaporised water in the air condensing into droplets as the temperature dropped at higher altitudes. 

During a pause to take pictures, I encountered two strong cyclists, each carrying two full loads of pannier bang on a self-supported tour. They had started from Sun Moon Lake in the morning, aiming to reach Alishan that day, covering a respectable 110 km with 2620 meters of elevation gain. At our supply stop, our driver provided them with various calorie-rich snacks to ensure they had enough “fuel” to reach their destination. 

Tataka, situated at an elevation of 2600 meters, marked the highest point of our trip. Eddie mentioned that it typically rains on the other side, especially when the winds blow from the south. We concluded the ride at the top, and our car took us to the Tefuye Historical Trail and the Erwanping Train Station for some short hikes. 

The Tefuye Historical Trail, once Tsou Indigenous People’s hunting trails, was utilised during the Japanese rule period for transporting logs via railways. Now it’s a picturesque hiking trail stretching more than 10 km. 

Erwanping Train Station is one of the stations of the Alishan Forest Railway, which is not yet fully operational until the summer of 2024. That station offers a platform with a view of the majestic mountains. As no trains were running on this station yet, we walked on the track to see a tree with a giant hole. We left Nantou County and entered Chiayi County. 

Route:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Day 3 Shizhao to Xiaolin Village Memorial Park, Car ride to Baolai Hot Spring

We continued our descent along Provincial Highway 18 in Alishan Township after reaching Tataka the previous day. The views of the mountains, adorned with numerous tea farms, remained stunning even at lower altitudes. Eddie then led us onto Qinshan Industry Road, a steep and winding small road that brought us to Chashan Village (also known as Chayamavana), where Bunun, Tsou, and Han people live together. Here we had the opportunity to see coffee trees cultivated by the indigenous tribes.

The afternoon featured a culminating ride through the breathtaking canyon southwards along Provincial Highway 29 from Namaxia District. Provincial Highway 29 runs along the Qishan River, switching between the right and left bank numerous times. Each river crossing presented us with a gigantic rock cliff, resembling a cinema screen. It was truly a unique cycling experience!

We concluded our ride at Xiaolin Village Memorial Park. Beneath this memorial park lies a village where over 400 lives were buried in a landslide caused by Typhoon Morakot in 2009. It serves as a poignant reminder to respect Mother Nature and prioritise safety when exploring the mountains.

We spent a relaxing night in a hot spring hotel in Baolai, Kaohsiung.

Route:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Day 4 Baolai Hot Spring to Wutai

Today, we entered the arena of the Rukai People, which holds special meaning for me as the brand of my bike, Rikulau, is named after the sacred animal of the Rukai People – a clouded leopard. Legend has it that this creature left a footprint trail to the Rukai ancestors, leading them to a forever land for their children in the deepest forest at the foothills of Da-Wu Mountain.

As we continued our ride southwards to slit the sweet potato, we made two detours to climb to Duona in Maolin District for a lunch stop and Wutai for an overnight stay – both are Rukai villages. The most common plaster figures found on the walls of the buildings in the village are of people wearing lily flowers on their heads, signifying a prestigious status that needed to be earned. For a Rukai man, it meant hunting six or five wild boars, while for a Rukai woman, it symbolises virtue and chastity.

Route:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Day 5 Wutai to Eluanbi

We had an early ride today in Wutai to witness the sunrise in the mountains. Afterward, we took a walk in the Rukai village before breakfast. 

Our visit included the last indigenous village of our trip: Linali Village. Established after 2009, it was built to accommodate the displaced victims of the Paiwan and Rukai people after Typhoon Morakot destroyed their homes. A well-written post about how the artist striked to preserve the culture in this village here.

As we descended closer to sea level to Wanluan Township, we entered areas mostly inhabited by the Han Chinese. During the Qin rule period around 1683-1695, this region served as a frontier between the indigenous peoples and the Han Chinese, beyond the reach of the Qing administration. The Catholic Church filled this vacuum by providing welfare and protection to the people. The beautiful Wanjin Catholic Basilica was built in 1869, but its history dates back to 1861. In 1875, the Qing emperor recognized the church by erecting stone tablets in front of it after his imperial envoy reported people living in harmony under the influence of Catholicism. In 1984, Pope John Paul II conferred the title of “Basilica” (the highest rank of Catholic churches) upon the church. 

After enjoying the famous braised pork ham hock for lunch in Wanluan, our car took us to Hengchun to finish the last leg to Eluanbi. We cycled eastwards on County Highway 200 and 200甲, then southwards on Provincial Highway 26 along the east coast, offering picturesque landscape and the deep, vibrant blue of the sea.

Finally, we reached the southern tip of the island and visited the pristine Eluanbi Lighthouse, standing calmly in the park. 

Route:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Conclusion

Eddie has crafted such a fantastic itinerary to showcase the mountains of Taiwan within a limited time frame. Not only is he well-versed in the road conditions of the route, but he also knows the optimal times to reach specific locations. Working seamlessly with our driver, he skillfully skipped some less interesting parts to ensure we arrived at certain places at the perfect moments. His dedication to exploring the mountains, climbing numerous hills to meet indigenous peoples, and highlighting the best of Taiwan’s mountainous terrain reflects his deep love for the island. I feel incredibly fortunate to have joined his tour.

In addition to cycling in a group with a support vehicle, there are various ways to experience cycling in the mountains of Taiwan. One can immerse and roam in the mountains with no fixed schedule, staying in villages and connecting with the local people for more extended periods. Alternatively, a short 3-day trip can cover a smaller part of the mountains, as the urban areas can be reached easily. For those seeking a challenge, a fast-paced approach is possible. The Taiwan Mad Bike Association, for instance, offers a cycling challeng along the mountain within 3 days – Taiwan Twin Towers via the central line.

Regardless of your preferred style, adequate planning, monitoring road conditions, and observing the weather are essential.  Be responsible for your own safety and the mountains will reward you with unforgettable experiences.

Cycling Routes to Sun Moon Lake: Scenic Alternatives and Travel Tips

Sun Moon Lake is one of the popular cycling destinations among enthusiasts and tourists in Taiwan. The lake, located in the central part of the country in Nantou County, is surrounded by picturesque landscapes and offers a scenic route that attracts cyclists from various parts of the world.

There are various ways to cycle to Sun Moon Lake, including a detour from the Classic 9-Day Cycling Around Taiwan or taking a train to different train stations to start the ride. Here, I suggest several routes for you to consider. Given that most fellow cyclists would prefer routes with less traffic, I have chosen those routes along the small roads, mainly on the County Highways. These roads are enjoyable to cycle, but navigating them can be tricky in the dark. The road surface may deteriorate under unfavourable weather conditions. In such circumstances, please switch to the main roads, such as the Provincial Highways.

Changhua to Sun Moon Lake

Cycling from Changhua to Sun Moon Lake is one of the most popular routes, serving as a detour from the Classic 9-day Cycling Around Taiwan itinerary. On Day 2, we arrive at Changhua with the option to cycle to Sun Moon Lake or Chiayi the next day. The Official Cycle Route No. 1 (Day 3+1) suggests cycling mainly along Provincial Highway 14 and 21, which are well-maintained and the shortest with less climbing. However, some may find the road too busy, with heavy trucks, making it a rather unpleasant experience, especially after Caotun Township.

So, here, I suggest an alternative route mainly on county highways. We start from Chunghua Station and soon cycle on County Highway 139, which is recognized as one of the most popular cycling routes in central Taiwan, according to a local cycling magazine. After County Highway 139, we would have covered one-third of the route, having cycled 33 km with a total ascent of 550 meters.

The second third of the route is from Mingjian Township to Shuili, covering approximately 28 km with a total ascent of 310 meters. Mingjian Township is known for its numerous tea plantations. In Jiji Township, there is a small road that runs alongside the railways.

The final leg to Sun Moon Lake on County Highway 131 is 21 km, with a total ascent of 523 meters, placing you on the northern side of the lake. If your hotel is closer to the other side, Provincial Highway 21 is also an alternative choice, covering a distance of 15 km with a total ascent of 582 meters.

In addition to incorporating this route into the around Taiwan itinerary, another option is to take a train directly to Changhua Station and start the ride from there. Here is a list of trains that accommodate unbagged bikes traveling from Songshan Station in Taipei to Changhua Station on a typical weekday. For details on checking train schedules for bikes, please refer to this https://www.bikeexpress.com.tw/2020/bikes-on-public-transportation/#trawebsite

Official Route Changhua to Sun Moon Lake

Alternate Route 1 Changhua to Sun Moon Lake (Northern Side)

Alternate Route 2 Changhua to Sun Moon Lake (Southern Side)

After visiting Sun Moon Lake, Day 3+2 of the official Cycle Route No. 1 primarily follows Provincial Highways. This route is more direct and involves less climbing, offering a convenient and efficient option for cyclists. However, some riders may still prefer a quieter road, even if it means taking a longer route with more climbing. Here, I suggest this Alternate Route to get to Chiayi from Sun Moon Lake.

Official Route Sun Moon Lake to Chiayi

Alternate Route 1 Sun Moon Lake to Chiayi

Taichung To Sun Moon Lake

Taichung is another starting point for cycling to Sun Moon Lake, and you can also take a train to Taichung Station to commence your ride.

Here, I suggest a route that follows county highways to Sun Moon Lake. This route includes three main climbs. The first climb is on County Highway 136, a popular training route for cyclists in Taichung, with a total ascent of 690 meters in 21 km. Most of the ascent occurs as we approach the top, making it progressively steeper.

After descending 10 km to Guoxing Township, another climb on County Highway 147 is necessary, with a total ascent of 470 meters in 20 km.

Following a short descent, the final climb, mainly on County Highway 131, is shorter with a total ascent of 281 meters in 10 km. Upon completing these three climbs, you will find yourself on the northern side of the lake.

If you prefer to take the train to Taichung from Taipei, here is the train schedule that accommodates unbagged bikes on a typical weekday from Songshan station in Taipei.

Route:

Ershui Station to Sun Moon Lake

Ershui Station is the train station closest to Sun Moon Lake and is accessible with bicycles. While there is a Jiji Line connecting Ershui Station to Checheng Station, which is even closer to Sun Moon Lake, unbagged bikes are not allowed on this line. Although it is stated that bagged bikes are allowed, the smaller size of the train makes it impractical to board with your bike. Additionally, the segment from Jiji Station to Checheng Station was destroyed after a typhoon or earthquake in 2022. Passengers heading to Checheng Station need to transfer to buses after Jiji Station. Consequently, it is not advisable to travel with your bikes on the Jiji Line.

Eddie Chen has documented his single-day trip from Ershui to Sun Moon Lake with his wife on his video 

This is the route he shared with us.

Route:

More Options

Sending your Bike Beforehand

Changhua Station and Ershui Station provide bike shipping services. You can utilize these services to send your bike to the respective stations, allowing you to collect your bikes upon arrival and commence your ride. Here is a list of stations with bike shipping services. Typically, it takes 1 to 2 days for the bike to reach its destination. Here is a full list of train station that have bike shipping service.

High Speed Railway (HSR)

If you find the train ride too long, you may consider taking the High-Speed Railway (HSR) to Taichung or Changhua. The HSR Taichung Station is just 8.5 km away from Taichung Train Station, and the HSR Changhua Station is 9.5 km from Ershui Station. While a train ride from Taipei to Taichung and Changhua takes 3.5 to 4.5 hours, the HSR takes around 1 hour. To board the HSR, it’s necessary to bag your bikes with two wheels off.

Cycle the Five Extremes Around Taiwan – Conquering the Wuling Pass

Cycle the Five Extremes Around Taiwan is a cycling challenge that entails reaching the five extreme points of the Taiwan main island, including the North, East, South West, and the highest paved road at Wuling Pass, which stands at an elevation of 3,275 metres. Upon completing this challenge, you would have covered a distance of 1,237 kilometers and ascended a total of 11,143 meters.

While the Four Extremes Around Taiwan already provide a more challenging way to cycle around the island than The Classic 9-Day Cycling Around Taiwan, some fellow cyclists seek to incorporate an epic climb into their journey. Hence, we introduce the fifth extreme at Wuling, making it a total of five.

In this post, I will discuss the strategies for reaching the High Extreme of Wuling. For information about the other four Extremes, please refer to ‘Cycle the Four Extremes Around Taiwan.’

Best Time to Climb Wuling

According to Wang Shen-Chih, who has climbed Wuling Pass more than 200 times and shared his insights with us in this interview, the optimal period to climb Wuing is during autumn when the weather is typically sunny with a low chance of precipitation. Summer is also a viable option as temperatures at the summit are not excessively high. However, it’s important to plan the return trip for the morning hours to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms that are common during this season. He noted that spring tends to have frequent rain, and if it does rain, temperatures can drop below 10 degrees Celsius. Winter is considered the least favourable time for the ascent. It can bring either rain or fog, both of which can soak your clothing and sap your body heat posing challenges, especially during the descent. In the heart of winter, there may even be snow or ice on the road surface, making it hazardous for cyclists.

Possible Road Blockage and Traffic Control

When planning your trip, please be mindful of potential road blockages or traffic control measures in the mountain highways. The highways in these mountainous regions are occasionally subject to damage from typhoons or earthquakes. While repairs are typically carried out swiftly, some damages may take several months to fully repair. Construction workers may need to block off sections of the road to perform their work, resulting in specific time windows for passage.

As of the current date (18 Oct, 2023), there are four sections of Provincial Highway 8, from Xincheng to Wuling, undergoing repairs. For instance, at 179K+500 near Baisha Second Bridge, the scheduled windows for passage are at 10:00, 11:30, 14:00, and after 17:00. In the Kuanyun Section at 117K+400, the passage windows are 07:00 – 08:00, 10:00-10:10, 12:00-13:00, 15:00 -15:10, and 17:00-17:10, with the road closed during other times. The remaining two sections have no fixed schedule; typically, one lane is closed, and two-way traffic takes turns using the remaining lane.

These passage time windows significantly impact our riding schedule. It’s crucial to plan your ride carefully and have contingency options in case of unexpected delays. Avoid getting stuck on a mountain peak.

Please refer to this post on how to check the latest road conditions:

Strategies for Travelling Anti-Clockwise

Route

Climbing to Wuling

To cycle counterclockwise on the Five Extremes Around Taiwan route, you’ll face a challenging climb from Xincheng, Hualien to Wuling, covering a distance of 87 kilometers with a total ascent of 3,768 metres. This segment is the essential route of the KOM (King of the Mountain) race, also known as the ‘Eastern Approach to Wuling’ or ‘東進武嶺’.

Given the length and limited supply stops along this route, it’s essential to plan your journey carefully. If you cannot complete the ascent in a single day, there are two locations where you can stay overnight. The first option is Tianxiang, which is approximately 20 kilometres from Xincheng, with a total ascent of 636 meters. In Tianxing, you’ll find two hotels, Tienhsiang Youth Activity Centre and Silks Place Taroko, as well as a 7-Eleven.

The second option is Kuanyun Lodge, located at an altitude of 2,374 metres and much closer to the summit, making it a preferable place to stay over. Keep in mind that dinners at Kuanyun Lodge are served within a specific time window. If you miss the dinner or find the portions insufficient, there is a store that sells instant noodles, available until 21:30, according to the official website.

The ultimate challenge awaits in the last 10 kilometres, from Dayuling at 2,565 metres to Wuling. At this point, you’ll have expended much of your strength, and the air becomes thinner as you ascend. The remaining total ascent covers 767 meters within this 10.14-kilometre stretch, with 1 kilometre of descent that makes the gradient for the remaining ascent consistently over 10%. Approximately halfway, at around the 5-kilometre mark, you’ll encounter the Hehuanshan Service Station, your last opportunity for resupply.

However, it’s important to note that the weather at this altitude can change rapidly. If you find the ascent too challenging, encounter unfavourable weather conditions, or realise it getting too late to continue safely, it’s a wise decision to abort the climb and  descend to Lishan for the staying over. It’s a 30 kilometres route with 700-meter descent. 

Caution with the Long Steep Descent

While climbing to Wuling presents its challenges, descending requires careful consideration due to the risks involved. Even under favourable weather conditions and ample daylight, the descent demands caution. Before descending, it’s crucial to check your brakes. Some sections are so steep that you may even catch the scent of burnt braking pads from motorbikes and cars in the air. On a particularly sharp turn, there is a wall padded with used tires in place, just in case someone fails to navigate the turn.

Descending from Wuling in the dark is highly discouraged as it poses extreme dangers. The reduced visibility during nighttime requires a significantly slower descent, which places greater stress on the braking system. To ensure safety, plan your descent during daylight hours, allowing for ample time on your return journey. 

It’s also essential to bring sufficient clothing to keep warm. As a general rule, for every 100 metres of altitude gain, the temperature drops by an average of 0.65 degrees Celsius. At an altitude of 3,275 metres in Wuling, the temperature is 21 degrees Celsius lower than at sea level. During the descent, your body generates less heat than during the climb. The higher speed of descent amplifies the wind chill effect, further lowering the perceived temperature. If it rains during the descent, it can become a survival challenge. Therefore, it’s advisable to commit to the last 10 kilometers of climbing from Dayuling only under favourable conditions. We could cut our route short by cycling to Lishan from Dayuling directly, which is a more manageable terrain to ride. 

Lishan is a popular tourist destination with more hotels and restaurants, making it a comfortable location for an overnight stay. 

Lishan to Yilan

While the descent from Lishan to Yilan is generally a long and milder one, it’s essential to consider the two significant climbs you’ll encounter along the way. After two descents (9 kilometers, -468 metres; 3.6 kilometres, -195 metres), you’ll face two climbs (9 kilometres, 490 metres; 6.5 kilometres, 155 metres) before reaching Syiyuan Yakou, a mountain pass.

It’s important to prepare for a significant change in weather as you pass through Siyuan Yakou, especially during winter and spring. The mountain acts as a barrier to the cool north-east prevailing wind, trapping humid air on the northern side of the pass. This results in a significant drop in temperature, typically accompanied by drizzles and fog, making the road surface wet. In such conditions, descending rapidly may not be possible, and frequent brake use is necessary. As a result, braking pads tend to wear quickly, particularly as they grind against the sand sticking to the braking surfaces in the presence of water. Carrying extra sets of braking pads is a safer approach and can alleviate our concerns.

Strategies for Travelling Clockwise

Route

When following this route clockwise, after visiting Fuguijiao, the North Extreme, and Sandiaojiao, the East Extreme, the journey continues with a challenging climb to Wuling from Yilan along Provincial Highway 7 and 7甲 (7A) via Lishan. This particular route is also known as the ‘Northern Approach to Wuling’ or ‘北進武嶺’.

As you progress between Lishan and Yilan, you’ll find several accommodations scattered along Provincial Highway 7甲 (7A) to choose from. When booking your stay, please ensure that they offer meals, as there are no nearby restaurants. For resupply options, there is one grocery store in Taiping, one FamilyMart in Nanshan Tribal Village, and one 7-Eleven in Huangshan Tribal Village as you make your way from the bottom to Lishan. 

Lishan is considered an ideal place to stay overnight, as it marks the beginning of the final climb to Wuling, covering a distance of 40 kilometers with a total ascent of 1,474 meters. While this distance may not be extensive, it’s essential to plan adequately for the return trip to the next hotel.

Once you reach Dayuling and pass through the iconic Hehuanshan Tunnel, the route coincides with the anti-clockwise one, encompassing the challenging 10-kilometers ascent I’ve previously discussed. 
It’s worth emphasising that the descent from Wuling demands caution. This applies not only to the steep 10 kilometers back to Dayuling but also the remaining descent from Dayuling to Xincheng. You’ll need to navigate a descent of 3,022 meters over 77 kilometers. If you need to stay overnight before reaching sea level, consider Kuanyun Lodge. Alternatively, upon reaching Xincheng Station or Beipu Station in Hualien, you’ll find numerous hotel options to choose from.

Cycle the Four Extremes Around Taiwan: Around-the-island for the Cycleholics

Cycle the Four Extremes Around Taiwan is a cycling challenge that involves reaching the four extremes – north, east, south and west – while circumnavigating the island. It is also known as ‘Da Huan Dao’, the big around-the-island.

While Cycle Route No. 1 provides a clear 9-day route to experience various aspects of Taiwan by bike, there are numerous other routes to explore the entire island. Many fellow cyclists challenge themselves by cycling to the four extremes of Taiwan while circumnavigating the island. These four extremes encompass the northern, eastern, southern, and western corners of the island, each adorned with picturesque lighthouses that command expansive views of the surrounding oceans. 

North Extreme: Fuguijiao Lighthouse 
East Extreme: Sandiaojiao Lighthouse 
South Extreme: Eluanbi Lighthouse 
West Extreme: Guosheng Lighthouse 

Because reaching the extreme points requires us to hug the coastline, this creates a larger loop to cover, essentially an extended version of the classic 9-day ride around Taiwan. This expanded route spans a total distance of 1,100 kilometers with an accumulated ascent of 4,650 meters. Along ‘Da Huan Dao’, the roads are typically less crowded, with lighter traffic, providing us with many opportunities for uninterrupted, exhilarating rides. If you relish the chance of cycling long distances without pause, this route is sure to offer a thrilling experience. 

Here are the routes and the strategies to accomplish this feat.

Strategies for Travelling Anti-Clockwise

Routes

This route can be ridden in both a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. 

I typically recommend riding it anti-clockwise because we drive on the right-hand side of the road in Taiwan (with the driver’s seat on the left-hand side of the car). When traveling clockwise, we’ll be on the lanes closer to the sea, allowing for smoother stops, as most points of interest are situated along the seaside.

North Coast

To start our trip, we can either cycle or take a short train ride to Keelung. From there, we’ll cycle westwards to visit Fuguijiao and and mark off the Fuguijao Lighthouse, the North Extreme, before heading south along the west coast. The western half of the north coast features some hilly terrain, but once we pass the Guandu Bridge and reach Bali, we’ll have a flat, straight route along the west coast for smooth riding. 

West Coast

During late autumn, winter, and early spring, a prevailing wind from the northeast can work to our advantage on the west coast. At times, with the assistance of these winds, I’ve reached speeds of over 40km/h easily. If you aim to allocate more time for exploring the east coast, it’s quite feasible to cover over 200 kilometers on the west coast in a single day. In fact, some exceptionally strong cyclists have even completed the journey from Fuguijiao Lighthouse (North Extreme) to Eluanbi Lighthouse (South Extreme) within 24 hours during the cycling event known as ‘Two Towers in One Day’.

We don’t need to exhaust all our energy covering just two of the Extremes because we have four to visit. In between, our next stop is the West Extreme, Guosheng Lighthouse in Tainan. However, it’s crucial to note that this lighthouse is quite remote, situated on the edge of a vast, rural area filled with fish ponds and lacking street lamps. It’s essential not to venture there after dark, as navigation can be challenging, and there’s a risk of accidentally falling into the unlit fish ponds. Additionally, sometimes the road may be covered by a thick layer of sand brought by the wind.


After visiting the West Extreme, we’ll encounter two major cities, Tainan and Kaohsiung. Tainan’s traffic can be busy, but there’s only one short section with some traffic lights as we cycle through the western fringe of the city. Navigating Kaohsiung can be a bit tricky as we need to pass through the city center. However, I’ve shared some valuable tips on making this part of the journey smoother in ‘The Classic 9-Day Cycling Around Taiwan’.

Hengchun Peninsula

While Cycling through the Hengchun Peninsula on our way to the South Extreme, we may encounter ‘downhill winds’ or ‘downslope wind’ as the mountain ranges come to an end here. The Prevailing wind that has been aiding us on the west coast will be disrupted by the lower hills, resulting in gusty winds from various directions. It’s essential to grip hour handlebars firmly and proceed with extra caution during this stretch. 

Hengchun and Kenting are renowned as holiday paradisses, offering a plethora of accommodation options. After visiting the Eluanbi Lighthouse, if you opt to continue on County Highway 200, Manzhou Township provides another excellent stopover. Remember to stock up on supplies when you have the opportunity, as the availability of supply stops becomes sparse in this region. 

Keep in mind that after visiting the South Extreme, we’ll be cycling against the winter winds, which can significantly reduce our speed. It’s crucial to plan our days conservatively. Beyond Manzhou Township, the next stop is 55 kilometers away, with an elevation gain of over 900 meters to Daren.

East Coast 

After arriving on the east coast, navigation becomes straightforward – head north, passing through various townships for resupplying along the way. Upon reaching Taitung, you can consider taking the coastal route on Provincial Highway 11, provided that wind isn’t excessively strong. On one occasion, Lois and I encountered fierce winds during a December ride. Even when descending from a hill after battling the wind on the climbing, we still had to pedal. Eventually, we had to climb over Provincial Highway 30 to return to the Rift Valley, where the Coastal Mountain Range offered some protection from the relentless gusts. The East Extreme is further north in the Gongliao District of New Taipei City, by cycling in the Rift Valley, we won’t miss it.

Beyond Xincheng Station, you’ll encounter the Suhua Highway. In the Classic 9-Day Cycle Around Taiwan on Cycle Route No. 1, it’s suggested to skip this section by taking a train from Xincheng Station to Yilan due to the highway’s risks and challenging conditions. Please refer to the ‘Cycling the Suhua Highway’ post to decide on your approach.

Yilan is a popular, bike-friendly county. However, beyond Tucheng, you’ll need to share Provincial Highway 2 with heavy trucks on weekdays for over 20 kilometers before reaching the East Extreme at Sandiaojiao Lighthouse. To visit the lighthouse, you’ll need to make a short, steep climb (90 meters ascent), which is undoubtedly worth the effort for the breathtaking views. 

That concludes our anticlockwise journey around the Four Extremes of the Island. To return to Taipei, you can switch to Provincial Highway 2C (2丙) to avoid heavy truck traffic. Alternatively, you can stay on Provincial Highway 2 and visit one more lighthouse – Bitoujiao Lighthouse.

After completing the Four Extremes Around Taiwan, your GPS tracker will have traced a sweet potato shape. You can then start planning your mountainous route to ‘slit the sweet potato’ during your next cycling adventure.

Strategies for Travelling Clockwise

Route:

If your primary goal is to visit the Four Extremes without completing the full island journey, it’s advisable to consider a clockwise route, especially during the northeast prevailing wind seasons. 

We can kick off the adventure by cycling to the North Extreme from Tamsui, which is conveniently connected to Taipei via the Riverside Bikeways. Once you’re on the bikeways, there are no motorized traffic and traffic lights to contend with. 

The North Extreme and East Extreme are mere 85 kilometers apart, making it feasible to cover both corners in a single day if your time is limited. After reaching the East Extreme, during the winter season, the prevailing wind will propel us toward the South Extreme.

From there, we’ll only need to cycle against the wind for the final leg from the South Extreme to the West Extreme, covering a 200-kilometer stretch on flat, wide roads with numerous supply stops. Once you’ve checked off the last Extreme, you can decide how far you want to continue cycling.

Heading north to Taipei can be challenging during the north east prevailing wind seasons. My fellow cyclist friend, Eddie Chen, has done it this way with his wife back in 2017. He documented their adventure in this video (Chinese with English subtitles). Eddie shared with me that the west side of the island is a vast, flat land with little protection from the wind. Even if you cycle close to the hills, there are still crosswinds to contend with. He recommended sticking to Provincial Highway 19 or Provincial Highway 1, which offer a more inland route for more places to stopover. 

The route I share on this post is plotted along Provincial Highway 1 because there is a railway running parallel to it. It’s easier to use a train that allows unbagged bikes onboard. There are other public transportation options for returning to Taipei with your bike. You can find details on How to Ride With Your Bike on Public Transportation in Taiwan.

The Classic 9-Day Cycling Around Taiwan: Along Cycling Route No. 1 or Alternative Routes

A day-by-day itinerary plan complimenting the official Cycle Route No. 1 with additional suggestions and alternate routes to enhance your experience and ensure a smoother ride.

While the Tourism Bureau’s Cycle Route No. 1 provides an excellent framework for planning our cycling trip around the island, many fellow cyclists have identified areas that can be improved. One common issue is the numerous traffic lights along the route, particularly in urban areas on the west side, which can be quite disruptive and significantly slow down the journey. 

Through meticulous planning and routing, we can achieve a smoother and more enjoyable ride. Here, I’ve put together a 9-day itinerary that incorporates quieter alternate routes to enhance your cycling experience. It’s important to note that these alternative routes often involve smaller roads with less supply stops.

It’s worth mentioning that the government is prompt in repairing roads damaged by earthquakes, typhoons, and monsoons. However, the priority for reparies doesn’t necessarily favour smaller roads. So, if you find that these routes are not in ideal conditions, it’s advisable to switch to the main road as recommended by Cycle Route No. 1.

I recommend an anti-clockwise direction because we drive on the right-hand side of the road (with the driver’s seat on the left side of the car). In this direction, cyclists can enjoy better views of the sea along coastal routes, and most attractions are conveniently located on the seaside. This eliminates the need to cross the road when stopping to visit these places. 

Day 1: Songshan Station (Taipei) to Hsinchu County

Follow the rivers to reach Taoyuan and ascend for a brief climb to reach Hsinchu on the west coast. (If you prefer cycle on the coast, please refer to the Day 1 of this post https://www.bikeexpress.com.tw/2022/cycling-around-taiwan-in-multiple-stages-1/#day1)

Cycle Route No. 1 officially begins at Songshan Station. The official GPS route directs you through Nanjing EAst Road, guiding you across Taipei.From there, you’ll enter the serene Riverside Bikeway via Dadaocheng Pier Plaza, offering 20k of dedicated bike paths without traffic lights, leading you to the city’s outskirts. Once outside the city, you’ll share the road with other vehicles, which is manageable since traffic is lighter. However, the cycling experience might be hindered by occasional traffic light stops, particularly within city limits. 

I have devised this alternative route with the goal of maximising the utilisation of the Riverside Bikeways, thereby minimising interruptions caused by traffic lights. The protected bike path on the first half of your journey offers a safer environment for you to familiarise yourself with your bike’s setup. Rather than cycling along Nanjing East Road, you will access the Riverside Bikeways via the Raohe Evacuation Gate, ensuring a smoother ride through Taipei. While the official route directs you towards Provincial Highway 3 upon reaching Sanxia, this alternative route provides an additional 20 km of cycling on dedicated bike paths until you reach Sankeng, where it merges with the official path.

Official Route (blue):

Alternative Route (green): 

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Day 2: Hsinchu County to Changhua City

Explore the west coast for a day and soak in the stunning sea views. Experience a long, flat stretch with minimal traffic lights, allowing for uninterrupted cycling. 

At the last 20 km of Day 2, you will be routed away from the west coast to inland areas. Some may find there are too many towns and traffics on Day 3 and Day 4 in this itinerary. If you prefer longer stretch of uninterrupted cycling, the route for Taipei to Kaohsiung in One Day is better for Day 2 to Day 4. Just divide this route in to 2 to 3 days and pick towns of your choice to stay over. Here is an example of a cycling trop on the west coast https://www.bikeexpress.com.tw/2022/cycling-around-taiwan-in-multiple-stages-1/ .

Hsinchu is situated in the western edge of the island, where the Taiwan Strait is at its narrowest. During the period of north prevailing winds (September – February), wind speed intensifies due to the Venturi effect as winds pass through this channel. Consequently, Hsinchu is renowned, or sometimes infamous, for its robust winds. In the autumn and winter months, cyclists are aided by the wind’s push along the coast. From June to August, the wind direction changes, though it’s typically not excessively strong.

There are numerous picturesque bike paths along this segment of the west coast. It would be a missed opportunity to solely stick to the main road. Hence, I’ve charted an alternative route that includes some detours, leading you to the coastal edge for quieter surroundings and shaded areas. Keep in mind that our pace might be somewhat slower than on the main road due to the narrower paths and interactions with other road users, especially during holidays. While these detours add 20 km to the overall distance, they decrease total ascents from 665 meters to 320 meters. In case reaching Changhua City becomes challenging, there’s a range of hotels available for an overnight stay in Wuqi District of Taichung. This would be advisable as the following day’s route is shorter, 85 km long.

Official Route:

Alternate Route:

Day 3: Changhua to Chiayi 

An inland route offering a mix of townships in the first half and rustic countryside in the second.

The southern part of Taiwan’s main island boasts a larger expanse of flat land. Although we’ll be cycling closer to the hills, the total ascent is only 301 meters over 80km. The first 35 km pass through five townships: Huatan, yuanlin, Yongjing, Beidou, and Xizhou. The roads are broad with a designated slow lane for scooters and bicycles, but be prepared for more traffic lights that might disrupt your rhythm. As you approach the picturesque Xiluo Bridge, conditions will improve. This bridge then leads to Yulin County, renowned for its agricultural products. The second part of the route offers more pleasant riding, with rustic views prevailing. If you wish to bypass the townships, you can opt to take a train to Shetou. Before departing Changhua, make sure to visit the Changhua Roundhouse, a notable attraction in the area.

Cycling Route No. 1 provides an option to cycle to Sun Moon Lake, but this would require an extra day to rejoin the main route.
Upon reaching Chiayi, consider visiting the restaurant known for its fish head soup, as featured in Netflix’s ‘Street Food: Asia’.

Official Route

Day 4: Chiayi to Kaohsiung

Cycle through Taiwan’s vast Chiayi-Tainan Plain, also known as the Jianan Plain, on a leisurely day’s ride that concludes in Kaohsiung, the country’s third-largest city.

Covering a distance of 100km, this route entails a total ascent of 725 meters. The roads are spacious, featuring an additional slow lane for added comfort. You’ll encounter fewer townships along the way, allowing for the enjoyment of scenic country views throughout the journey.  If you’re making good progress, consider a detour to the Old Waterworks Museum in Shangshang District of Tainan. This historical water process plant, constructed during the Japanese Occupation period, is worth a visit, adding only 3 kilometers to your route. Keep in mind that exploring this beautiful museum might require at least and hour of your time. 

Continuing along the route and departing from Xin Hua Old Street, you’ll find yourself beneath the High-Speed Railway. Following the Dahu Train station, each town you traverse will progressively grow larger and busier until you arrive at Nanzi district in Kaohsiung. While the official route concludes here for the day, it’s advisable to cycle into the city center for a wider range of hotel options and to avoid morning commuting traffic the following day. More details about hsi can be found in the Day 5 itinerary.

Official Route:

Alternate Route:

Day 5: Kaohsiung to Checheng, Pingtung

Embark on a day of cycling through Kaohsiung to reach Pingtung, the southernmost county of the island, marking the conclusion of the west coast leg.

Kaohsiung stands among Taiwan’s major cities, and I’ve sought advice from fellow cyclists on navigating it seamlessly. For those lodging in  Nanzi District, Kaohsiung resident Vivian Wong suggests using the MRT to Xiaogang Station, effectively bypassing the city’s traffic. Bicycles are permitted on the MRT throughout its operating hours, at a fare of NTD 60. If cycling is preferred, Vivian proposes taking County Highway 186 eastward, then transitioning to Provincial Highway 29 to head south. This route enables escape from traffic after Renwu District, with fewer traffic lights. Alternatively, for those open to some climbing, County Highway 186A (186甲) offers an even better options. The suggested route (Alternate Route) is available at the end of this section.

Eddie Chen, a renowned cycling writer and Vlogger, recommends accommodations near Kaohsiung Train Station, central to the city. As the locals predominantly commute towards the city center for work, cyclists heading in the opposite direction in the morning experience less crowding. Eddie also suggests a detour to Qijin District by ferry from Gushan Ferry Pier. This allows cycling along the picturesque bike paths tracing the elongated island’s southern tip. Upon taking the ferry from Zhong Zhou Ferry Pier to Qianzhen District, the city outskirts come into view. Note that bikes are prohibited in the tunnel at the island’s southern tip.

Here are the time schedules for Gushan Ferry Pier and Zhong Zhou Ferry Station, respectively.

Post departure from Fangshan Township, two routes beckon: Provincial Highway 9 and County Highway 1999. These routes lead you over the hill and onto the east coast. Provincial Highway 9 comes first. Should this be your preference, consider staying over in Fenggang. Personally, I recommend continuing further south to Checheng, offering more hostel and restaurant options. County Highway 199 also provides ideal for cycling due to lighter traffic, particularly on weekends.

Most readily available official GPX routes guide you onto Provincial Highway 9. Here the official route is modified slightly to lead you to Checheng.

Official Route

Alternate Route

D6: Pingtung County to Taitung County

Climbing over to Shoukatiemayi Station and descending to the beautiful east coast

Today, we take on the challenge of climbing County Highway 199 to Shouka, reaching an altitude of 450 meters to transition from the west coast to the east coast. Due to some ups and downs upon reaching the peak, the total accumulated ascent will be 1300 meters. County Highway 199 is a tranquil road with a moderate gradient. Along the route, you’ll encounter settlements of the Paiwan people, one of the 16 indigenous tribes of Taiwan. Restaurants and stores are still accessible along the route. In case they’re closed as you pass, make sure to stock up on supplies and water at the convenience stores like 7-Eleven and Hi-Life in Mudan.

Upon completing the climb, you’ll be rewarded with an exhilarating descent and captivating panoramic views of the azure Pacific Ocean along the route from Daren to Taitung. A few more 100-meter climbs are in store. Take breaks and replenish supplies when you reach small towns.

Following this classic 9-day itinerary, you’ll move on to Provincial Highway 9 for further progress into the Huadong Rift Valley. For more lodging options, consider staying in hot spring hotels in Zhiben or Beinan. If Taitung City is your choice, switch to Provincial Highway 11 for a more direct route. 

Official Route

D7: Taitung to Hualien County (Ruisui Township)

Embark on a leisurely cycling journey through Taiwan’s scenic beauty in the Huadong Rift Valley. 

There are two cycling routes from Taitung to Hualien City: the rift valley route (Provincial Highway 9) and the coastal route (Provincial Highway 11). This classic itinerary suggests taking the rift valley route due to more supply stops and towns for overnight stays. Additionally, the rift valley provides some shielding from the north east prevailing winter winds, making northward cycling easier. 

Navigation on this route is straightforward. Follow the Provincial Highways northward. Two attractions worth visiting are the Brown Boulevard in Chishang and the Old Dongli Train Station, which serves as the starting point of the Yuli-Fuli Bike Path, exclusively for bikes and running parallel to Provincial Highway 9. Along this bike path, you’ll be led to the Junction of the Eurasian Plate and the Philippine Sea Plate (temporarily closed due to the earthquake on September 18, 2023, expected to reopen by June 6, 2024). Detours to these attractions and the bike path are included in the Alternate Route 1 in this section. 

However, we still need to cycle on the highways sharing the road with the motorised traffic when there are no bike paths. If you prefer a route with less traffic, Eddie Chen recommends heading west after visiting Brown Boulevard in Chishang, using the Zhuofu Industrial Road (花75) to Yuli. This road offers a close view of the paddy fields with minimal traffic. From Yuli, you can follow County Highway 193 to Ruisui, as suggested in the following rouet:

Official Route

Alternate Route 1 Yuli-Fuli Bike Path

Yuli-Fuli Bike Path is closed for maintenance after the earthquake on 2022. Expected to open in 2024 Summar

Alternate Route 2 花75 197

D8: Ruisui Township, Hualien to Yilan

We will continue our scenic journey along the rift valley, from Ruisui to Xincheng, and then opt to take a train to Suaoxin Station (not Suao Station) or (further north stations in Yilan) to bypass the challenging Suhua Highway. 

Below are the daily train options, allowing you to bring your bikes on board by purchasing a bike ticket which costs half the adult fare at any station with ticketing staff available. Here is more information regarding taking a bike onto a train.

When heading north from Ruisui, the most straightforward route is via Provincial HIghway 9. While County Highway 193 remains a good choice, it becomes hillier beyond Ruisui. Covering a distance of 63 km, the total ascent reaches 700 meters on County Highway 193, whereas on Provincial Highway 9, covering 65 km, the total ascent is a more manageable 314 meters. Upon arriving at Hualien Station, you won’t need to cycle to Xincheng Station to catch the train, as there are direct trains to various stations in Yilan.
If you prefer not to take the train, you’ll face the challenging Suhua Highway, for which I’ve written a post about it to assist you in deciding whether to take on this formidable route. In the case of cycling on Suhua Highway, you may need to cover more distance the preceding days and commence your ride from Hualien City or further north.

Official Route

Part 1: Total distance 96.77 km | Total ascent 348 m | Total descent 455 m

Part 2: Total distance 14.29 km | Total accent: 19 m | Total descent 41 m

D9: Yilan to Taipei

This is the last day of the Classic 9 day around the Island. We would cycle through Yilan and get back to Taipei.

The official route suggests you head northwards on Provincial Highway 2 to the north east point of Sandiaojiao where you would find lots of beautiful attractions like Sandiaojio Lighthouse, Maoao Fishing Harbour connected by a bikeway loop separated from the main road. One of the highlights is the  2-kilometre Old Caoling Tunnel converted from an old train tunnel. 

However, before reaching the entrance of the bikeway, you will need to share Provincial Highway 2 with lots of heavy trucks for 20 km after Toucheng. There should be fewer heavy trucks during weekends or holidays. At the entrance of the bikeway, heading north, the Old Caoling Tunnel provides a shortcut to Fulong Station, offering a cool and surreal cycling experience. Heading east, the separated bikeway running along Provincial Highway 2 provides beautiful views of the coast and other attractions. 

At Fulong Station, the heavy trucks will continue their journey on Provincial Highway 2 until they reach Ruifang. We will be parted with them and witch to Provincial Highway 2C (2丙)and 5 to get back to Taipei. While Provincial HIghway 2C (2丙), a wide and flat road, offers an enjoyable route with serene views of the green hills, Provincial Highway 5, connecting Keelung to Taipei, has more urban traffic, especially during rush hours. Looking at the elevation profile of Garmin route, you may notice a sharp peak of 525 meters on Provincial Highway 2C. Please note that you don’t need to climb that hill; there’s a tunnel. Komoot provides a more accurate elevation profile. 

If you’d like to avoid the traffic on Provincial Highway 5, you can switch to County Highway 106 at Shifen. However, this County Highway is also popular among motorcyclists, so it might be noisy during weekends. After passing this 7-Eleven, you can then Climb County Highway 109 to get back to Nangang, Taipei.

Another route to return to Xindian District of New Taipei involves climbing two peaks of over 500 meters, with a total ascent of 107 meters, via Provincial Highway 9 through Pinglin District. However I wouldn’t recommend taking this route during weekends or holidays, as it’s usually crowded with high-speed motorcycles. The roaring engines make it nosy, and some of them may try to pass each turn at maximum speed, increasing the risk of accidents.
Upon reading Taipei, you can use these two posts to plan your route within the urban area of Taipei: Navigate the Riverside Bikeways in Taipei and New Taipei and How to Get Around Taipei Urban Area by Bike

Official Route

Alternate Route 1 County Highway 106

Alternate Route 2 Provincial Highway 9

Cycling the Suhua Highway: Evaluating Challenges, Experiences, and Factors to Consider

The Suhua Highway is a treacherous and narrow roadway that winds along the edge of a steep cliff, connecting Hualien to Yilan. It navigates through hilly terrain, featuring three major climbs and noisy tunnels. Cycling on this route is considerably more challenging compared to other sections of Cycle Route No. 1. As a result, it is often recommended to take the train with our bikes to bypass this segment.

However, cycling on Suhua Highway offers stunning coastal views, challenging terrain, a sense of adventure, and a refreshing experience in nature. Some cyclists embrace the opportunity for the breathtaking views and the exhilarating experience of tackling the challenging terrain.

We had customers wondering if they should do it. Here are my thoughts about whether to cycle on this part.

Challenging: long with lots of climbing

The Suhua Highway from Xincheng to Su’aoxin is not an easy one. We have 82 km to cover with several peaks to climb, resulting in a total ascent of 1,675m according to Garmin Connect. We need to estimate our strength and decide how challenging we want our day to be.

Risks posed by Mother Nature

There are also some risks involved in cycling on this route. First, the risk posed by mother nature. Landslides and falling rocks on the road, though not common, can occur, particularly after earthquakes, heavy rains, and typhoons.

Risk posed by other vehicles

Secondly, there is a risk posed by other road users such as heavy trucks, coaches, and cars. The road is narrow, leaving less space for those vehicles to overtake bicycles.

Another challenge is cycling through the tunnels with those vehicles. Along the route, there are several narrow tunnels where the noises produced by heavy vehicles can be trapped inside, making it unpleasant to the ears.

New Suhua Highway 

The situation has improved after the Directorate General of Highways finished building the new Suhua Highway (Provincial Highway 9) in 2021. The new highway has diverted more traffic from the old one (Provincial Highway 9丁), making some of the sections more like a road exclusively for bikes. Which are shown on the map below in blue:

  • Daqingshui to Hezhong: 10.7km, Total Ascent 252m
  • Heping to Nanao: 25.9km, Total Ascent 453m
  • Dongao to Suaoxing: 18.84km, Total Ascent 420m

Overlapping Sections

However, there are still some sections where the two highways merge and combine the traffic. (shown on the above map in red)These sections are:

  • Xincheng to Daqinshui: 12.66km, Total Ascent 323m with 4 tunnels
    • 崇德隧道 (Chongde Tunnel): Length 325m, Width 7.5m
    • 匯德隧道 (Huide Tunnel): Length 1460m, Width 7.5m
    • 錦文隧道 (Jinwen Tunnel): Length 406m
    • 大清水隧道 (Daqingshui Tunnel): Length 521m, Width 7.5m
  • Hezhong to Heping: 3.63km, Total Ascent 24m
  • Nanao to Dongao: 10.94km, Total Ascent 275m with 1 tunnel
    • 新澳隧道 (Xinao Tunnel): Length 1267m, Two pipes (northbound pipe has two lanes)

Strategies and Tips

If you are well-informed and decide to cycle on this part, here are some tips I would like to share with you:

  • Choose to cycle only in favorable weather conditions. It’s no fun and risky to cycle in poor weather conditions.
  • Heavy trucks can be noisy, but they are very familiar with the route. They usually wait patiently until it’s safe to overtake the bikes. To facilitate their overtaking, it’s recommended to cycle in a group of two. A long line of bikes would make it hard for trucks to overtake safely.
  • Cycling northwards, which means anti-clockwise around the island, is more favorable. Most of the points of interest are on the sea side, and as Taiwan adopts right-hand traffic, you’ll have better views of the sea while cycling in this direction without needing to cross the road for stops. Additionally, it’s easier to spot falling rocks on this side of the road.
  • If you go northwards, start your day early to cover the four tunnels between Chongde and Daqingshui before the traffic gets busy. After Daqingshui, most of the tunnels are found on the Old Suhua Highway (9丁 or 9D), which has less traffic. The last section where the two routes combine is Nanao to Dongao, which is 11km long with a total ascent of 275m and a 1.2km tunnel to cover. Evaluate your strength, traffic and weather conditions, and the time of the day. If needed, you can take a train without bagging your bikes to Dongao or Suaoxin. 
  • If you go southwards, start your day early to cover the session between Nanao and Dongao before the traffic gets busy. 
  • Most truck drivers have their lunch breaks between 12:00-1:00pm which leaves the road less busy. Try to use this window to cover the overlapping sessions. 

Experience sharing from our customer

Kevin, who did the around-the-island in September 2023, rode the Suhua Highway. He set off at 5:00 am from Xincheng and found the overlapping sections in Chongde very manageable in the early morning. When he reached Nan’ao around 10:00 am, there were heavy trucks. He said the heavy trucks usually came in waves. His strategy was to stop at the roadside to give way to the trucks first. Then he would have a window of about 10 minutes or so without the trucks. It would be long enough to cover a tunnel.

For information on trains that allow naked bikes daily and more details on using public transportation with your bike, you can find additional information here.

Five Cycling Routes to Explore Yangmingshan

Yangmingshan National Park is one of Taiwan’s nine national parks, renowned for its volcanic terrain, breathtaking peaks, and tranquil lakes. The park offers a variety of hiking trails that allow visitors to explore and savour panoramic vistas, including the renowned Seven Star Mountain and the picturesque beauty of Xiaoyoukeng. Due to its elevation of over 800 metres, well-maintained roads, and convenient accessibility from Taipei, it has become a favoured destination for cycling enthusiasts.

The nearest starting points to climb the mountain from Taipei are accessible via the Riverside Bikeways, which are Yangde Boulevard (Provincial Highway 2A or 2甲) and Zhishan Road, followed by Pingjing Street. Yangde Boulevard is a less steep and more easily navigable option, but it often experiences heavier traffic. To avoid inhaling exhaust fumes while pushing my lungs to their limits, I generally prefer not to choose this route for climbing, unless it’s early in the morning. Descending on Yangde Boulevard, however, is less physically demanding and can be completed relatively quickly. On the other hand, despite its steeper incline, I personally enjoy taking the Zhishan Road and Pingjing Street route the most, as encounters with cars are infrequent.

If steepness is not your preference, County Highway 101 followed by County Highway 101A or 101甲 provides a more gentle approach. However, you need to get to Hongshulin to begin the climb. If you prefer not to ride there, you may take an MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) instead. The other two starting points, Jinshan District and Sanzhi District, are quite remote from the city centre.

Here, I have plotted different routes with varying lengths and difficulties for you to choose from.

Route 1: Ascend Pingjing Street, Descend Yangde Boulevard 36km 982m Total Ascent

It’s a 17 km climb that takes you to Lengshuikeng Visitor Centre at 746 m where you can see the vegetation changes. Then the final kilometres on the Zhonghu Road of Armaments (中湖戰備道路) offer a captivating panoramic view with stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains. Upon reaching Xiaoyoukeng Visitor Center, you can take a short walk on a pleasant hiking trail to explore a volcanic steam vent area (fumaroles), provided you are comfortable leaving your bike unattended for an hour. If you have more time, you can take a detour to the Bamboo Lake where you can find many restaurants and flower farms. For the descent, you can take Yangde Boulevard to return to Taipei city. There is a smooth transition to get to the Riverside Bikeways that connect to the other area of the city.

This is a flexible route. If you wish to shorten your ride before completing the climb, there are several shortcuts available that can take you directly to Yangde Boulevard.

Routes:

NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.

Route 2: Ascend Pingjing Street, Descend Balaka Highway (County Highway 101A or 101甲)  48 km 1267 m Total Ascent

The climbing is the same as Route 1. However when you reach Erziping Visitor Center, you have the option to continue climbing towards the Mount Datun Air Navigation Station. This segment spans 2.36km with a total ascent of 247 m, resulting in an average gradient of over 11%. I recommend attempting this climb only under favourable weather conditions. 

Descending on Balaka Highway (101A or 101甲) is a fun and thrilling experience due to ideal level of steepness. It’s a quiet road, but please remember not to assume sole ownership of it  as occasional cars may pass by. On County Highway 101, you’ll come across Wuji Tianyuan Temple, distinguished by its building that resembles an umbrella. The temple boasts a beautiful cherry blossom garden, which is worth visiting during the appropriate season, typically around March and April. 

At the end of the descent, you will find yourself in Tamsui, an area with numerous tourist attractions. Among my favourites are the Hobe Fort and Fort San Domingo.

From there, you have the option to cycle back to Taipei using the Riverside Bikeways or simply take the MRT from Hongshulin Station

As I mentioned earlier, Balaka Highway (101A or 101甲) is less steep to climb. Therefore,  this route is equally enjoyable when done in reservse.

Routes:

Route 3: Ascend Pingjing Street, Descend Yangjin Road (Provincial Highway 2A or 2甲), Ascend again to Fenguizui 74km 1597 m Total ascent

This route features two climbs. The first climb follows the same route as Route 1. By descending to Jinshan District, you will reach the picturesque north coast. The Yehliu Geopark offers a plethora of fascinating orange rock formations to explore. Afterward, you can resupply and embark on your climb back to Taipei via Fengguizui (600 m), following the suggested route. 

Alternatively, you may cycle to Keelung through the Waimushan Seaside Scenic Area followed by a comparably flat route on Provincial Highway 5 to get back to Taipei. Yehliu to Keelung is a refreshing route to cycle. The Keelung to Taipei leg has nothing to boast of. Sometimes, I prefer to take the train from Keelung back to Taipei, alighting at Nangan, Songshan or Wanhua station. Normally, before 15:30 each day, there are 1 to 2 trains every hour that accommodate unbagged bikes. After 15:30, you’ll need to wait until 18:16.  For more details about taking trains with you bikes, refer to the provided link here

Routes:

Route 4: Ascend Pingjing Street, Descend to Jinshan, Ascend again on County Highway 101 and Balaka 96 km 1985 m Total Ascent

This route features two climbs on Yangmingshan. The first half of this route is the same as Route 3, but we would head west after descending to Jinshan District and cycle along the invigorating and magnificent north coast. On weekends, you can find cafe trucks near Jhungjiao Bay. The Fugui Cape Park,  situated on the northern tip of Taiwan’s main island, presents a pristine lighthouse and is an idyllic place to visit. After a short ride from Fugui Cape, there is a popular sticky rice dumpling restaurant that provides a delicious calorie boost at a very reasonable price. The final climb begins at Sanzhi District, where you can restock your supplies. At the junction of County Highway 101 and 101A (or 101甲), there is a convenience store for further provisions before reaching the top. As you finish descending on Yangde Boulevard and check your Strava, you’ll notice you have traced a big fist on the map. Therefore, I suggest we name it the Budha’s Fist as the 5th Route is referred to as the Budhda’s Palm, a route that deserves a dedicated post

If you don’t want to make the 2nd climb, you can simply cycle straight to Tamsui and return to Taipei. The route is a little hilly but the total ascent is smaller. 

Routes:

After cycling these 5 routes, there is still much more to explore within Yangmingshan National Park. The roads are well-maintained, offering numerous interesting stops along the way. Feel free to plan your own route and embark on further exploration, but it’s important to be prepared as weather conditions can change dramatically. We’ve had fellow cyclists who experienced difficulties descending from the top due to rain rapidly draining their body heat, which can lead to hypothermia. In such cases, they had to resort to hiring a van for transportation back. Stay cautious and enjoy your explorations!

How to Prepare Your Garmin Device for Navigation in Taiwan

Garmin devices are preloaded only with maps of your country. If you plan to use your Garmin device for navigation overseas, you will need to load the maps of the foreign country onto your device beforehand. Otherwise, you will only see a blank screen or a single line on your display.

According to this web page of Garmin, if you own one of the Edge® 540/840/1040 Series devices, you don’t need to purchase maps separately. You can utilize Garmin Express, a computer software tool, to perform free map swaps and load them onto your device.

For other series, purchasing the map at USD 19.99 is required. However, even if you are willing to pay for the map, you might not find the map of Taiwan available for purchase on Garmin’s website. Thankfully, there are alternatives: OpenStreetMap and BBBike Extract Services. The process is straightforward. Simply visit this website, https://garmin3.bbbike.org/, and follow the instructions to download your desired maps. Unzip the file and copy the “gmapsupp.img” file to the “Garmin” folder on your Garmin device. If you need to download maps of multiple areas, you can rename the file, such as “gmapsupp_Taiwan.img”. When you power up the device, the map will be automatically loaded. There are various formats available, and you can find details about the formats on this link, https://garmin3.bbbike.org/garmin.html. I wanted to use UTF-8, but my Garmin EDGE 530 only supports Latin1.

To double check that the map of Taiwan is properly loaded on your Garmin device, you can send one of our routes to your device and check if the map displays the details correctly. If the map is loaded properly, the route on your device should appear as shown in the picture below.

Step by Step Guide to Download the OSM for Garmin devices (e.g. EDGE 530)

  • On your computer’s browser, navigate to the website: https://garmin3.bbbike.org/. This website allows you to extract data from OpenStreetMap and package it in your preferred format for Garmin devices.
  • Once you’re on the website, you’ll see various format options. Look for the “Format” section and select “Garmin Openfietsmap Lite (latin1)”.
  • Click on search and key in “Taiwan” to jump to the Taiwan section
  • Fill in your email address and click the button “here”. An orange box will appear on the map.
  • Click on the orange box. Two small circles will appear. Use the one inside the box to move it and the one on the right bottom corner to resize the box.
  • Hit Extract and the page below will appear.
  • Click on the link  “service status” page
  • The “Taiwan” is being generated. Enable the auto refresh and wait until the download link is available.
  • Click on the “Download” to download the map.
  • Unzipped the downloaded file. For MacOS computers, the file is unzipped automatically
  • Connect your Garmin Device, say Edge 530, to your computer. It will become a USB drive of the computer
  • Copy the file named gmapsupp.img to the folder “Garmin” of the USB Drive. (i.e. Garmin Edge 530)
  • Eject the USB drive from your computer and then disconnect the USB cable.
  • When the Garmin Edge 530 powers up,  it will use the map automatically.
  • Feel free to make some donations to OpenStreetMap and BBBike.org